It is in honour of the Kalinago people that the island’s long distance walking trail, which covers the length of this beautiful tall body, is called the
Waitukubuli Trail, and it passes through the indigenous territory on the east coast. You can visit their cultural center, the
Kalinago Barana Aute, for fascinating tours, tours and cultural experiences, but remember that this is not just for tourists. It is a homeland to 3,400 people, now living in eight coastal villages over an area of 15km² , but who have lived all over the island for thousands of years. The population here is still thriving, thanks to the fact that the Kalinago succeeded in resisting colonial presence over the centuries. It was colonists who re-named the Kalinago people as Caribs, a term that is still used today, and on maps you will see their homelands called the Carib Territory.
First to deal with were the Spanish, post Columbus’ voyage of discovery in 1493 – who was also responsible for re-naming the island Dominica, meaning Sunday Island – because he passed the island on a Sunday. Not quite as creative as the Kalinago interpretation, it has to be said. He never actually landed, however, and the Spanish didn’t make it much further either, put off by the difficult mountainous terrain and excellent topographical and survival knowledge of the Kalinago.
Next in were the British and the French, the former attempting to colonise in 1627 under the reign of Charles I, although again they didn’t get too far, with local resistance remaining strong. The French then tried their hand, bringing Catholic missionaries with them in 1635, but mostly in vain, with both abandoning the island in 1660. The big colonial blow was struck in 1763, however, when Britain was ‘given’ Dominica as part of the Treaty of Paris, the outcome of the Seven Years’ War. In recognition of indigenous rights, the Kalinago people were given access to their own 232 acres of mountainous and rocky shoreline in the north east– about 1km² . It wasn’t until 1903 that this was increased to 15km², which it remains today.
This period also brought the painful and shameful introduction of slavery to this idyllic landscape, with over 40,000 people brought in from various African countries, such as Nigeria and Cameroon, to work as slaves on plantations between 1763 and 1778. During this year the French re-invaded, while the Brits were busy doing their bit in the American War of Independence. The battle scars from these years of battling between the British and the French can be seen at various forts around the island, including Fort Shirley, Scotts Head and Fort Young (now the location of one of the island’s most prestigious hotels). The British took back the island in 1783 and with this continued the importation of slave workers, with total numbers rising to over 100,000. Slavery wasn’t finally abolished here until 1834.
Dominica’s independent and strong streak is reflected in the fact that it also became home to Maroons, a term given to escaped slaves, from Dominica and other islands, who took to the easy-to- hide-in hills and created safe houses for each other. They fought against the British in battles known as the Maroon Wars, and held their own on some occasions, but suffered major losses as well, until as late as 1815. Indeed, Emancipation Day is a big celebration every year in Dominica, with a festival running for a couple of weeks at the end of July/beginning of August, acting as a firm reminder of the country’s history. A country where the Afro-Dominicans still make up 95 percent of the population. You will hear the name ‘Jacko’ come up in Dominica quite a lot – the Maroon Chief who died in battle in 1814. He is remembered in places such as the Jacko Steps, which were carved into the mountainous slopes of the Layou Valley to give Maroons access in and out of their hiding places. Thankfully it is hikers who hug these hills today.
Dominica gained full independence from the British in 1978, and suffered both political and natural instability over the next 30 years with hurricanes hitting hard on several occasions, and political instability hitting hard too. Some of the most severe hurricanes were Dean, in 2007, which totally wiped out the banana industry, and Maria, which killed 65 people and damaged 95 percent of the buildings in 2017.
The main industry now is tourism, with their history of sustenance and resource rich agriculture being neglected by many of the younger generation. Luckily, the Dominican government and tourism players have maintained their sense of independence and cultural identity in a world where tourism is in danger of becoming globalized and generic. Maybe it’s still the tough volcanic terrain and unpredictable mountainous magnificence that keeps invasions of mass tourism at bay still today. Or maybe it’s the people who know that what makes Dominica special, is that it has remained so culturally and naturally pure for generations.
