The Kokoda Track in Papua New Guinea
The history of the Kokoda Track
In 1942, Papua New Guinea was a strategic wartime frontier. For the Japanese, wresting control over this remote land was seen as a key way to cut off Australia, and it was also a potential base for launching attacks. They landed on the north shore in July, and advanced quickly across the tough terrain. The Allied Australian and Papuan forces fought back, but in each brutal battle they were overwhelmed. Battlefield by battlefield, the Japanese proceeded some 100km south towards Port Moresby, reaching within 32km of the capital.
These were vicious conflicts, exacerbated by the jungle surroundings, tropical diseases, lack of planes to provide air supplies and the fact that the Allied forces were ill equipped, as their hefty weapons were considered too cumbersome to lug across the sweltering mountains. There was no real infrastructure, and the logistical challenges bordered on the ridiculous; at one point the Allies were even ordered to construct a road to resupply troops. Kokoda was an eight day walk from the nearest coastal supply point, there was no open, flat ground for planes to land, and airdropped supplies were either damaged or – more frequently – lost.
However, in September, with Port Moresby in sight, the Japanese troops were ordered to withdraw. They were facing American troops in the Solomon Islands, and were unable to support both campaigns. The Japanese began to retreat, while aiming to retain key strongholds, and the Allies pursued them back to the north coast. After months of fighting in the tropics and dangerously low food supplies, the men on both sides were exhausted, and the death toll was high.
Today, there are no battles fought along the Kokoda Track, and supply routes are somewhat more established, but infrastructure is still very limited, the climate is brutal, and this 100km trail remains a physical and mental challenge. For modern day trekkers, including the Australian descendants of those who served here in 1942, this is a fitting way to commemorate those who fought and fell; this expedition really does give a glimpse into some of the hardships they faced. While the dangers are minimised, there is little in the way of creature comforts still; accommodation is in tents or basic village guesthouses, rivers are used for freshening up, and you’ll be filling your drinking bottle from water holes.
How to trek the Kokoda Track
First off, this is no simple undertaking. The chances are, you’ve got a long journey just to reach PNG, and these are not cheap trips. You also need to be fit: this is a solid, eight or nine-day hike covering mountains , jungles, river crossings on foot, and sharp ridges, with the odd swamp if attempting it in rainy season. Each participant is usually assigned a porter, but you’ll still need to carry a daypack with food, water, extra layers and so on. Porters carry a maximum of 10kg, so you’ll need to pack wisely. One of the biggest challenges is the climate; the extreme heat and humidity are hard to prepare for, and exhausting.
However, Papua New Guinea is one of the world’s least explored destinations. Its Pacific island location has allowed its unique fauna and flora to flourish, undisturbed, alongside a fascinating culture. Most Papua New Guinea vacations skim around the edges, to areas easily accessible by boat or air, sticking close to towns or heading to the offshore islands. Trekking the Kokoda Track is a rare opportunity to venture inland, far from civilisation, and to explore a primal landscape as beautiful as it is brutal.
Sample Kokoda Track itinerary
Itineraries vary from day to day, but given how far you need to walk, and the options for sleeping in guesthouses or campsites, they are all fairly similar. Here is a sample itinerary.
After flying into Port Moresby, a 35-minute flight takes you northeast to Popondetta, which is a further five to six hour drive – over paved and dirt roads, and across creeks – to Kokoda itself. This is a great introduction to the region’s history, as you can visit the Kokoda Memorial and War Museum. Some itineraries also run the opposite way – starting from Owers’ Corner and heading north to Kokoda before flying back. On some expeditions, a free day in a village is factored in halfway through.
On the way, you might stop off at the Bomana Cemetery, the final resting place of 3,600 Australian soldiers, and a poignant place to end your trek.
The practicalities
Most days involve walking anywhere between five and 10 hours, depending on the ascents, fitness, weather conditions and distance. Accommodation will be in campsites – often in picturesque settings beside creeks or in jungles – or in guesthouses run by local communities. This is not luxury travel, but you’re sure to be tired enough to enjoy a deep sleep each night, and you’ll be up close to the stunning natural landscapes as well as learning about community life and meeting Papuan families.
You’ll be joined by a bilingual guide who will keep spirits up and share stories about local culture, traditions, wildlife and plants – as well as the all important history of the trail. Your trekking company will provide you with recommended training schedules – best attempted with a full backpack – to ensure you get the most out of your expedition.
Papua New Guinea vacation, The Kokoda Trail
Papua New Guinea, The Kokoda Trail
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Kokoda track trekking vacation in Papua New Guinea
The ultimate Papua New Guinea trekking vacation
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10 days
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Kokoda track trekking vacation, Papua New Guinea
Trek across the geographical heart of Papua New Guinea
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Packing for the Kokoda Track
Trekking companies supply comprehensive equipment lists. Top items to pack include resealable plastic bags and dry sacs to keep everything dry, a bumbag (fanny pack) for items you might need to access regularly without having to rummage around in your backpack, and a large water bottle – preferably with a filtering system like LifeStraw – so that you can fill up at water points along the way. Consider swapping a heavy DSLR for a lighter point and shoot, or even a decent camera phone, and as there is unlikely to be charging points along the way, spare batteries are essential.
Quick drying clothes are a must, as are light waterproof layers, bathing suits, and plenty to protect you from the sun – including sun screen, sunglasses and a hat. Bring a head torch, a quick drying towel, a properly fitted daypack and basic medical supplies – you are a long way from help. And don’t forget to take out comprehensive travel insurance, including emergency repatriation.
Responsible tourism on the Kokoda Track
Supporting local communities
The cost of your Kokoda Track vacation includes an official permit. Around 25 percent of this goes towards maintaining the track, with a further 25 percent paid to communities situated along the route. Some trekking companies also run their own community development projects, and include additional donations to these in the cost of their trips. These may support health programmes, where doctors and nurses are flown over to treat conditions several times a year. Many responsible companies only hire PNG nationals; some may be descendants of the Papuan troops who fought in 1942.
Responsible tours here give as much back as possible to the residents of Kokoda, including staying in community run guesthouses and campsites and buying food from markets. In areas where food is scarce, it may be airlifted in to ensure local supplies are not depleted.
Hikers are encouraged to meet and interact with villagers as much as possible; fortunately, many local people have a basic knowledge of English, but of course your local guide can help you to communicate, too.
Supporting the environment
Interestingly, the growth of tourism along the Kokoda Track may well have benefitted the local environment. Communities who once saw the forests and rivers as a resource to be exploited now benefit financially from the trekkers. They understand that for this to continue, the landscapes must be kept as pristine as possible, and wildlife is no longer hunted for food.
Responsible trekking companies will carry all plastic, metal and glass back out with them to Port Moresby. Drop toilets have been installed along the track to reduce human waste, and some companies have built eco toilets along the route to further protect the environment.
Responsible trekking companies will carry all plastic, metal and glass back out with them to Port Moresby. Drop toilets have been installed along the track to reduce human waste, and some companies have built eco toilets along the route to further protect the environment.
We recommend bringing water filtering bottles, such as those produced by LifeStraw, so that you can fill up from creeks and rivers as you walk, and reduce the use of plastic bottles. Also look out for eco friendly sun screens and toiletries, as you will be bathing in a lot of rivers.
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