Moroccan cities

Cities in Morocco capture everyone’s imagination and inspire creativity. Painters aspire to capture the bevy of blues that bring a blissful calm to coastal Essaouira. Writers such as Evelyn Waugh brought Fez to life through fiction in Brideshead Revisited, while Esther Freud portrayed the sensory magic that is Marrakech in Hideous Kinky. Paul Bowles, the author of The Sheltering Sky which went on to become a BAFTA-winning film, was inspired by his time in Tangier. And experts believe that the fine work of artist Henri Matisse was totally transformed by this coastal city too.

Each city certainly boasts its own unique characteristics, from the indigo idyll that is Chefchaouen, nestled into the Rif Mountains, or the pinks and reds of Marrakech with its backdrop of the Atlas Mountains. Each city is informed not only by its cultural heritage but by nature too, be it desert, mountains or ocean. Or all three.

Marrakech is home to a museum of Islamic art and historic artefacts. It’s the contemporary culture, however, that gets visitors’ hearts beating, their gastric juices flowing and their senses awakening. The Koutoubia Mosque with its iconic minaret is its centerpiece and the huge souks surrounding the Jemaa El-Fna square are where the daily fiesta of food, fun and free-for-all bartering over Moroccan handicrafts happens. Marrakech’s glorious majesty may be shabby round the edges but this was once the heart of power for the Almoravid and Almohad dynasties, dating back to 1071, and the capital city for the next two centuries.

Its whitewashed traditional houses proffer a perfect contrast to their red tiled roofs, all giving it an almost Mediterranean feel. This may be because it was reinvented by Andalucians escaping the Reconquista of the Middle Ages. Like all of Morocco’s cities, you can relax after a day hiking in the foothills, Talassemtane National Park or indeed right up to the Jebel al-Kalaa peak (1,616m) by taking a traditional hammam. Or cool down in the charming museum, which takes you through its many different influences, from the Andalucians to fending off the Portuguese in the 15th century.

Tangier is a gateway port. It’s more a passing through sort of city for that reason, although it boasts a fascinating history given its strategic position. Over the centuries it has seen and still bears witness to a wonderful mix of North African, Spanish, French and Portuguese influences.

In terms of passing through, many people get a night train from here to Marrakech, or take a day train to Fez, a five-hour journey away. In terms of hanging out in this historic port town, some of the main highlights include the Kasbah Museum, a former Sultan’s palace, now with a collection of art and artefacts dating as far back as Phoenician times. It became well known among a bohemian, arty set during the 1950s: most famously American novelist Paul Bowles, who was inspired to write The Sheltering Sky here. During the 1960s, it became famous for being a gay resort, frequented by other well-known writers such as Tennessee Williams and Joe Orton. It is very much a cruise city today, with big liners spilling thousands of tourists into the souks and squares of the old town.

Meknes has 40km of ancient city walls, the main gate into it being Bab el-Mansour, thought to be one of the finest examples of imperial gateways in the country. And they do like their ancient gateways. These typically Moorish big doors and high walls were typical of the Sultan Moulay Ismaïl’s tastes, who ruled Meknes 1672-1727 and was founder of the Alaouite dynasty. He favoured this fusion of Islamic and Spanish architecture which you can still see today throughout the Place Hedim main square, Heri es-Souani granaries and Dar Jamai former palace, now the Museum of Moroccan Arts. You can also find out more about the Sultan’s history at the ancient Habs Qara underground prison.