Responsible tourism in Kenya
While much of Africa is only just setting off on its tourism expedition, Kenya has been bumping happily along the trail for decades, becoming synonymous with game drives, bush camps and the quintessential African vacation. But it has now reached something of a crossroads.
Historically, the main tourism attraction in Kenya has always been its nature and wildlife. Tourists tend to avoid the towns and cities, and much of the continent’s human history has been all but ignored. But for a truly responsible vacation here, it’s not all about the secluded lodges and tucked-away waterholes, but also about cultural exchange. Meeting the people who live here alongside the animals, learning about their traditional lifestyles, and helping to support them too.
Where once wildlife was the star attraction – and the one commanding the greatest protection – now community-based tourism in Kenya is being recognised as pivotal in a rewarding safari experience too.
Tourism has been the driving force behind Kenya’s progress when it comes to conservation, contributing to the creation of vast national parks and game reserves, and the outlawing of hunting. But Kenya’s ability to adapt to this shift – widening the scope from wildlife to include people – may determine the success of tourism here in future. Because conservation must acknowledge the role that traditional ways of life can play in environmental protection, and the right of Kenya’s indigenous peoples to practise those ways of life ahead of profits.
Historically, the main tourism attraction in Kenya has always been its nature and wildlife. Tourists tend to avoid the towns and cities, and much of the continent’s human history has been all but ignored. But for a truly responsible vacation here, it’s not all about the secluded lodges and tucked-away waterholes, but also about cultural exchange. Meeting the people who live here alongside the animals, learning about their traditional lifestyles, and helping to support them too.
Where once wildlife was the star attraction – and the one commanding the greatest protection – now community-based tourism in Kenya is being recognised as pivotal in a rewarding safari experience too.
Tourism has been the driving force behind Kenya’s progress when it comes to conservation, contributing to the creation of vast national parks and game reserves, and the outlawing of hunting. But Kenya’s ability to adapt to this shift – widening the scope from wildlife to include people – may determine the success of tourism here in future. Because conservation must acknowledge the role that traditional ways of life can play in environmental protection, and the right of Kenya’s indigenous peoples to practise those ways of life ahead of profits.
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People & culture in Kenya
How do conservancies work in Kenya?
A conservancy is created when a group of landowners comes together to collectively manage their small parcels of land as a bigger area. Each landowner maintains their individual title, but decisions are made collectively. Land use agreements maintain limited grazing rights, and – crucially – the landowners can lease their land to safari companies, who can establish lodges or camps on the land with agreed visitor fees.Traditionally, land in Kenya was set aside as a national park (such as Amboseli) or as a wildlife reserve (such as the Maasai Mara). When it came to conservation and tourism, this process was often very successful. But it also often meant that local communities were evicted from the land they had lived on for generations and could no longer use it for grazing livestock, fishing or harvesting food and firewood.
Then a third way emerged, permitting the coexistence of local people and wildlife. Conservancies began to spring up across the country, particularly in areas surrounding the Maasai Mara Game Reserve – where an abundance of wildlife is found.
The advantages of the conservancies are huge:
All sounds pretty swell, right?
Well, not entirely.
Are Kenya conservancies land grabs in disguise?
While there’s no doubting the contribution that conservancies make to environmental protection, there have been accusations that these set-ups sometimes resemble a land grab, or even a modern form of colonialism, dispossessing communities of their ancestral lands in the name of conservation.
The argument goes that local people give up unfettered access to their grazing pastures and are directed into low-paid jobs in the conservancies such as cleaning, driving or gift shop staff, while the land is used for big-bucks wildlife tourism.
One prominent conservation agency is the Northern Rangelands Trust (NRT), which works closely with the well-known Lewa Conservancy and receives funding from USAID and the European Union, among other organisations. The NRT has been accused of serious human rights abuses and the control of land that is even greater than that of the Kenyan government.
The argument goes that local people give up unfettered access to their grazing pastures and are directed into low-paid jobs in the conservancies such as cleaning, driving or gift shop staff, while the land is used for big-bucks wildlife tourism.
One prominent conservation agency is the Northern Rangelands Trust (NRT), which works closely with the well-known Lewa Conservancy and receives funding from USAID and the European Union, among other organisations. The NRT has been accused of serious human rights abuses and the control of land that is even greater than that of the Kenyan government.
Conservancies & pastoralism
Conservancies also hinder the movements of herds. Conflicts between pastoralists (who range over wide areas with their livestock in search of grazing pastures) and farmers (who remain in one place) over land aren’t new. But they are growing increasingly common and violent across the African continent, with livestock invading farmland and plundering crops, and farms, with fenced-off fields, encroaching onto range lands.Such flare-ups are often a result of inequitable land ownership, which is one legacy of colonialism in Kenya. With a warming climate making grazing pastures harder to come by, and now conservancies breaking up rangelands too, some pastoralists feel as though their livelihoods are under threat.
There is huge money to be made in wildlife tourism and farming. Pastoralism, on the other hand, is often viewed as economically unproductive. But moving cattle and other livestock from place to place serves a strong environmental benefit, fertilising soil and improving biodiversity.
What the issue boils down to is who has the right to control access to land, and decides how it should be used. Does the need to replenish Kenya’s struggling wildlife outweigh that of pastoral communities to maintain access to their rangelands? And where conservancies are set up, are they operating on an ethical, cooperative basis that offers genuine opportunities and income to local people, or trampling on their rights in the name of conservation?
How you can support community-based tourism in Kenya
Conservancies are potentially a valuable solution to what could be considered the main problem facing tourism in Kenya: the tricky balancing act of conserving wildlife while also helping people stay in their homes and continue their ways of life.
Visit community-owned and -managed conservancies that are more likely to employ local people in higher grade roles and ensure that profits from tourism stay in these communities. Community-owned conservancies significantly reduce the risk of exploitation by irresponsible tour companies, as the community sets the rules.
Ask your tour operator direct questions such as “How much do you pay to the Maasai village when I go there?” or “Who do you pay the money to?” and “How do you support the village and where can I see the evidence?”. These should be met with direct and clear answers – any fudging or nebulous “whenever possibles” should trigger a warning light.
Community-based tourism: the wrong way
Despite the rise of community-owned conservancies, there are still many cultural tourism experiences which do not benefit the communities directly, and even tours which are exploitative and degrading. Tour companies visit villages so that visitors can photograph local people without interaction; money goes into the pockets of the tour companies and drivers without being shared with the villagers themselves.As well as being deeply unethical for the local communities, tourists also report being harassed and bullied into buying crafts and making donations – the natural conclusion of a community who sees wealthy visitors in their village each week, without seeing any of the benefits.
Etiquette when meeting Maasai people
If you find yourself on a tour to a Maasai village – or that of any other ethnic group – never take photos without asking permission first, and always try to engage with the local people rather than just looking and taking pictures. Ideally, your guide will be from the village itself (plenty of Maasai speak English!), but if not, they should be able to converse in the local language and know the community well.
Any gifts should be given to a local leader to distribute as they see fit – speak to your tour company first to find out what they recommend donating. It may not always be what you expect! If the tour company is unsure, this is a warning sign that they are unfamiliar with the community.
Sex tourism in Kenya
As with many countries where you have wealthy tourists visiting and impoverished local communities, sex tourism has long been an issue in Kenya, particularly along the coast in areas such as Malindi, Mombasa and Diani. Disturbingly, children under the age of 18 are known to frequently be engaged in commercial sexual exploitation. Some have been forced into this through poverty and the need to support their families; others have been trafficked.This practice is illegal in Kenya, and some progress has been made in recent years to tackle it. Kenya’s parliament has passed a national policy on the elimination of child labour which incorporates sex work, and the Kenyan police established a Child Protection Unit to investigate child exploitation. Sadly, child labour is still prevalent.
What you can do to fight sex tourism in Kenya
Wildlife & environment
Is hunting allowed in Kenya?
Always ahead of the game in African tourism, Kenya banned trophy hunting in 1977. Long-established national parks and newly gazetted communal conservancies across the country strive to protect the nation’s wildlife – including many threatened species such as wild dogs and black and white rhino. But shockingly, wildlife numbers have declined substantially since hunting was banned.
There are many reasons behind the decline, including drought, a wave of violence in Laikipia County involving armed herders invading properties and killing wildlife, and human populations spreading into wildlife habitats. Protecting wildlife also costs huge amounts of money and even when it’s properly funded it can be controversial.
Herders and farmers need to be compensated if a lion is killing their cattle, or they’re simply going to go out and kill it. And as a huge amount of wildlife lives outside protected areas, human-wildlife conflict results in the poisoning of predators that threaten livestock.
In several other African countries where controlled hunting is permitted (including Zimbabwe and Namibia), wildlife numbers are on the increase and high trophy hunting fees have been reinvested in wildlife conservation. Inevitably, then, there continues to be talk of introducing hunting permits in Kenya.
This would be a highly controversial move, not only amongst animal welfare groups, but with those who feel that this would be a step backwards for conservation. There are concerns about the potential for corruption and the ability of the Kenya Wildlife Service (KWS) to manage the permits, as well as the negative image this would bring to the tourism industry.
Does hunting help conservation?
Hunting in Kenya is complicated. We do see the argument that well-regulated hunting can help to manage wildlife populations as well as raise considerable funds for conservation projects. But the principle that saw Kenya ban hunting all those decades ago – that wildlife is worth more alive than dead – is just as valid today. By visiting Kenya, taking a game drive and paying your entry fees to national parks and reserves, you are demonstrating this.
Responsible communal conservancies are a fantastic example of how land use can affect the fortunes of wildlife. Rather than fees being paid to KWS, they are paid directly to the community that owns the land, so that local people can see instantly the benefits of protecting the wildlife, which is what visitors come to see.
The conservancies create important buffer zones around the parks and wildlife reserves, form extended wildlife corridors and deter poachers in a kind of Kenyan “Neighbourhood Watch”. So visiting responsible conservancies and creating income for those who have set aside their own land for the protection of wildlife sends an important message to those who may otherwise be poaching or poisoning.
If you want to support a specific programme in Kenya, take a look at Save the Rhino, which runs several field programmes protecting the endangered rhino and the areas they live in.
There are many reasons behind the decline, including drought, a wave of violence in Laikipia County involving armed herders invading properties and killing wildlife, and human populations spreading into wildlife habitats. Protecting wildlife also costs huge amounts of money and even when it’s properly funded it can be controversial.
Herders and farmers need to be compensated if a lion is killing their cattle, or they’re simply going to go out and kill it. And as a huge amount of wildlife lives outside protected areas, human-wildlife conflict results in the poisoning of predators that threaten livestock.
In several other African countries where controlled hunting is permitted (including Zimbabwe and Namibia), wildlife numbers are on the increase and high trophy hunting fees have been reinvested in wildlife conservation. Inevitably, then, there continues to be talk of introducing hunting permits in Kenya.
This would be a highly controversial move, not only amongst animal welfare groups, but with those who feel that this would be a step backwards for conservation. There are concerns about the potential for corruption and the ability of the Kenya Wildlife Service (KWS) to manage the permits, as well as the negative image this would bring to the tourism industry.
Does hunting help conservation?
Hunting in Kenya is complicated. We do see the argument that well-regulated hunting can help to manage wildlife populations as well as raise considerable funds for conservation projects. But the principle that saw Kenya ban hunting all those decades ago – that wildlife is worth more alive than dead – is just as valid today. By visiting Kenya, taking a game drive and paying your entry fees to national parks and reserves, you are demonstrating this.
Responsible communal conservancies are a fantastic example of how land use can affect the fortunes of wildlife. Rather than fees being paid to KWS, they are paid directly to the community that owns the land, so that local people can see instantly the benefits of protecting the wildlife, which is what visitors come to see.
The conservancies create important buffer zones around the parks and wildlife reserves, form extended wildlife corridors and deter poachers in a kind of Kenyan “Neighbourhood Watch”. So visiting responsible conservancies and creating income for those who have set aside their own land for the protection of wildlife sends an important message to those who may otherwise be poaching or poisoning.
If you want to support a specific programme in Kenya, take a look at Save the Rhino, which runs several field programmes protecting the endangered rhino and the areas they live in.
Chinese investment in Kenya
China, Kenya’s largest trading partner, has made many significant investments in the country’s infrastructure as part of its strategic Belt and Road Initiative. The Standard Gauge Railway linking the capital, Nairobi, with Mombasa on the Indian Ocean has proved controversial due to allegations – denied on both sides – that the valuable port of Monbasa has been offered as collateral for the loan. Accusations of ‘debt trap diplomacy’ have frequently been levelled at China in recent years, as well as the International Monetary Fund (IMF).No one can deny Kenya’s right to develop its infrastructure and industries, and create much-needed income and employment – especially in the often drought-afflicted north. But some of the incentives behind these developments are troubling. Not only has China been regularly accused of siphoning off the natural assets of developing African nations for its own gain (which can be said of many Western nations too), but its environmental record is deplorable.
Given this record of environmental exploitation, hopes are not high that development will be carried out in a cautious way. Tiny Lamu is Kenya’s oldest continually inhabited town and a UNESCO World Heritage Site; the new Chinese-built deepwater port here, along with an oil refinery and pipeline, has enormous environmental implications for the coastline and marine life, including endangered sea turtles, that nest here. Local communities have not been consulted and indigenous groups have lost land to the project without their agreement or compensation.
Longer term, the emissions from these new projects contribute further to pollution and to the climate crisis. The droughts which periodically affect East Africa, costing many thousands of lives through crop failures and famine, have become more intense and long-lasting in recent years.
What you can do
Save Lamu is a local campaign group set up to raise awareness of the threats facing Lamu County, and to advocate on behalf of its people and businesses. The website has a wealth of information that’s well worth reading.
The ivory ban & elephant poaching in Kenya
Kenya has seen a massive decline in elephant poaching, which is down 80 percent since 2012. Meanwhile, elephant numbers have surged, up 21 percent to approximately 36,280 in about the same period. This success is a result of determined efforts to combat the poachers and international agreements to end the ivory trade.
The USA banned sales of ivory almost entirely and China, which has a 3,000-year-old history of carving ivory, swiftly followed suit, with dozens of workshops and retail outlets closing down. The UK, which has a long history in ivory trading, then introduced a very comprehensive ban – although the Born Free Foundation has pointed out that there are still potential loopholes which could allow ivory products to be sold.
There are reasons to feel positive, then, although there remains substantial demand for ivory products. A survey by the World Wildlife Fund of Chinese travelers found that though domestic demand has dropped considerably, vacationmakers would still seek out ivory artworks if they could. Many countries have yet to ban ivory.
What you can do to combat elephant poaching in Kenya
Never buy ivory products, new or second hand, and if you see ivory being sold in Kenya then report it to the local police.
Responsible elephant tourism proves to those in power that there is an economic case to protect these precious animals as well as a moral one. The more people pay to see them in the wild, the more likely they are to remain protected.
The USA banned sales of ivory almost entirely and China, which has a 3,000-year-old history of carving ivory, swiftly followed suit, with dozens of workshops and retail outlets closing down. The UK, which has a long history in ivory trading, then introduced a very comprehensive ban – although the Born Free Foundation has pointed out that there are still potential loopholes which could allow ivory products to be sold.
There are reasons to feel positive, then, although there remains substantial demand for ivory products. A survey by the World Wildlife Fund of Chinese travelers found that though domestic demand has dropped considerably, vacationmakers would still seek out ivory artworks if they could. Many countries have yet to ban ivory.
What you can do to combat elephant poaching in Kenya
Never buy ivory products, new or second hand, and if you see ivory being sold in Kenya then report it to the local police.
Responsible elephant tourism proves to those in power that there is an economic case to protect these precious animals as well as a moral one. The more people pay to see them in the wild, the more likely they are to remain protected.