Best time to visit Moldova

Whether you’re sightseeing in Chisinau or enjoying lunch at a pension in Butuceni, learning more about the secrets and quirky back story of Moldova is much more enjoyable when it comes from a charismatic local guide. From ecclesiastical insight into Capriana Monastery to discovering the trails around Codrii Nature Reserve, exploring with a guide is definitely the best way to find out more about a country that most people couldn’t place on a map.

Cross the border. Thanks to Moldova’s rather cosy proximity to Romania and the Ukraine crossing either border is a great way to hem the cultural threads of this pocket of Eastern Europe, with extended explorations into Belarus opening up opportunities still further. Overnight train journeys from Minsk to Kiev and onwards to historic Lviv offer travelers every chance to maximise their time away with overnight stays in the Eastern Carpathians certainly not to be missed for interested hikers.

Wine production is big business in Moldova with Cricova’s underground wine cellar well worth a visit, if only for the subterranean train ride that takes in many of the storage facilities and tasting rooms that have been visited by a long list of visiting dignitaries. Smaller, family-run wineries also offer fascinating insight into the deep relationship that Moldovans hold with the land as well as lazy afternoons on the terrace enjoying the sunshine, the food, and the harvest.

Search for posh nosh. Food in Moldova is usually quite simplistic, rustic fare and includes a lot of meat alongside stuffed cabbage and vine leaves, and freshly made breads and pastries. Sauces tend to be exceptionally flavoursome although not all that spicy, just very tasty. Several posh restaurants offer international fare at international prices but you’d kind of be missing the point as there are loads of excellent and affordable options offering a much more authentic taste of Moldova.

Overlook the birdlife. Herons and wild fowl feature prominently within the wetlands of Moldova with the Padurea Domneasca (Royal Forest) reserve offering old growth forests which also hide a small herd of rewilded bison. The bird life along the River Prut, close to the Romanian border, are akin to what you’d expect to see along the Danube Delta with pelicans, cormorant, spoonbills and terns massing around Manta Lake to get twitchers all of a tizzy.

Bother brushing up on your Russian. Although Moldova was part of the Russian Empire on and off since 1812, the relationship with Romania is far stronger and Romanian is the official language of Moldova apart from in Transnistria. Salut or buna (hi or hello); buna dimineata (good morning); la revedere (goodbye); da (yes); nu (no); multumesc (thank you); scuza-ma (excuse me); unde este…? (where is the…?) and cât costa asta? (how much is this?), are just a few phrases to get you started.